Pungitopo Asparagus
Estimated Inventory, lb : 0
Description/Taste
Pungitopo are young shoots harvested when they have reached 15 to 30 centimeters in length. The shoots are slender, elongated, upright, and cylindrical, sometimes slightly curling or bending from their top-heavy nature. The base of the shoot is smooth, lightly striated, rubbery, and taut, and at the top of the shoot are small, leaf-like structures. These structures are not true leaves but take on the shape and coloring of leaves. Each structure has a lanceolate shape with a curved base tapering to a pointed tip. The shoots have a dusty, muted, olive-green hue, occasionally blushed with purple tones, and the frilly tops display lighter yellow-green shades. When snapped in half, the interior of the shoot is fibrous, crisp, pale green, and moist. Pungitopo is edible after blanching to reduce its prominent bitter taste. The shoots have a crunchy, chewy, and tender consistency, and cooked shoots release a vegetal, grassy, green, and herbaceous bitter taste.
Seasons/Availability
Pungitopo is harvested in the spring, with a peak season from March to May.
Current Facts
Pungitopo, botanically classified as Ruscus aculeatus, are young, edible shoots belonging to the Asparagaceae family. The name Pungitopo is an Italian term used in Sicily to describe the seasonally foraged shoots of the species commonly known in English as Butcher’s Broom. Pungitopo is primarily a wild plant and appears for a few months throughout the Italian countryside. Foragers anticipate the shoot’s short season and gather the asparagus-like spears as a culinary delicacy. Pungitopo appears at the base of a small evergreen shrub reaching 30 to 100 centimeters in height, and the spears grow individually. It is important to note in Italy, especially in Sicily, Pungitopo is sometimes called Asparagi Selvatici, or Wild Asparagus in local markets. There are several other species that are also foraged and called Wild Asparagus, and Ruscus aculeatus is not considered a true asparagus even though it belongs to the same botanical family. Pungitopo is also known as Rusco, Bruscansi, Sparaciu di Tronu, and Asparagi di Trona, and the young shoots are valued for their bitter flavor, seasonal rarity, and nutritional properties in markets throughout Italy.
Nutritional Value
Pungitopo has not been extensively studied for its nutritional properties. The young shoots are thought to be a source of fiber to regulate the digestive tract, potassium to balance fluid levels within the body, and calcium to build strong bones and teeth. The shoots are also said to have anti-inflammatory properties due to the presence of tannins and phytosterols, natural compounds that have diuretic properties. Beyond the young shoots, the only edible portion of the plant is the underground rhizome. The rhizomes are typically used to reduce inflammation and lower blood pressure. In Europe, a natural remedy known as five-root syrup contains the rhizome along with celery, parsley, asparagus, and fennel and is used to help pass kidney stones and lower blood pressure through diuresis.
Applications
Pungitopo has a vegetal, bitter, and grassy taste suited for cooked preparations. The shoots are not consumed raw and are customarily boiled or blanched before cooking to reduce their bitterness. Pungitopo should be washed before use and can be boiled and tossed into salads, cooked and served on top of crostini and toast, or fried as a stand-alone side dish. The shoots can also be incorporated into risotto, mixed into pasta, blanched and baked into casseroles, or steamed, tossed in olive oil and lemon juice, and served with hardboiled eggs and bread. In Sicily, Pungitopo is famously used in omelets and frittatas as a seasonal ingredient. The shoots are also stirred into porridge and soups, grilled, sauteed, or served as a side to roasted and grilled meats. In addition to cooked preparations, Pungitopo are preserved in a mixture of oil, salt, and vinegar and are stored throughout the year as a condiment. Pungitopo pairs well with aromatics such as garlic, spring onions, and chile peppers, cheeses such as parmesan, ricotta, and pecorino, herbs including basil, parsley, and oregano, and other wild greens such as dandelions and chicories. Whole, unwashed Pungitopo should be immediately consumed after harvest for the best quality and flavor. The shoots will keep for a few days when stored in the refrigerator and are often trimmed and placed in a jar with water to ensure hydration.
Ethnic/Cultural Info
Pungitopo, as a mature plant, acquired its Butcher’s Broom moniker from its use as a natural tool to sweep. The species is distinct as the leaf-like structures growing along the stems are actually cladodes, extensions of the stems that take on the shape and functions of leaves. These dark green, spiny stems remain green year-round, earning the species a reputation as a favored ornamental, especially during winter. Historically, stems of the Butcher’s Broom plants were gathered and tied together to form small brooms, often called besoms, and were said to be a favorite of butchers to clean their blocks. The spiny stems were also hung around meat or placed around blocks of cheese to deter vermin from nibbling, and the brooms were used to clean chimneys. During the winter holiday season, Butcher’s Broom is revered for its evergreen nature and is regarded as a symbol of protection from evil. Stem cuttings were often hung in homes, stables, and businesses to protect the dwelling from evil spirits and were said to bring good luck. While this tradition has waned in popularity, some communities still harvest the evergreen stems as a festive and superstitious decoration in Mediterranean Europe.
Geography/History
Ruscus aculeatus is native to regions of Western Europe and Northern Africa and has been growing wild since ancient times. Much of the species’ history is unknown, but the plant has been recorded in texts, folklore, and medicinal remedies for centuries. Today, Ruscus aculeatus is still utilized as a medicinal ingredient, and the young shoots are seasonally foraged as a culinary delicacy. The species thrives in partially shaded to sunny locations and thrives in woodlands, along rocky ridges, and uncultivated dry regions. Ruscus aculeatus is known for being a hardy species and can survive in areas with drought, salty air, and heat. When in season, Pungitopo is foraged and sold through local markets in Western Europe, especially in Southern England and in the Mediterranean. In Italy, the species is primarily foraged in the province of Trapani, and some consumers prefer the bitter wild shoots to other types of wild asparagus. While less common, some Italian households have planted Pungitopo in home gardens to attempt small-scale cultivation. The Pungitopo featured in the photograph above was sourced through Genna’s Market in Marsala, a town in the Trapani province of Sicily.
