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Ascolymbros
Estimated Inventory, lb : 0
Description/Taste
Ascolymbros is comprised of an elongated, underground taproot topped with a rosette of slender, serrated leaves. The species wildly varies in appearance in markets, depending on whether it is cultivated or wild. It can also be sold in its natural state or cleaned and trimmed by the vendor. The taproot typically forms a straight, tapered shape, similar to other root vegetables like carrots and parsnips, and bears a brown, rough, and textured exterior when first removed from the soil. The taproot is dense, springy, and firm, encasing an inedible central woody core that should be removed before eating. Some vendors peel the root’s exterior and slice it open to remove this core before selling. If the taproots have been cleaned and prepped, they will have a white to ivory coloring and will appear in ribbon-like spiral shapes. In addition to the taproots, the rosette of pale to dark green leaves averages 10 to 25 centimeters in diameter and is branched with spiny, serrated leaves. The leaves are known for their fleshy, thick, and crisp center, and the thorny leaves are stripped before the central portions are added to culinary dishes. Both the taproot and greens should be cooked before consumption. The edible portions are pliable, textured, and snappy when raw, softening to a succulent and tender consistency once cooked. Ascolymbros taproots have a mild, neutral, and subtly earthy flavor. Some consumers note a faint artichoke undertone in their taste. The greens have a vegetal, green, and faintly bitter flavor.
Seasons/Availability
Ascolymbros is available in the winter through spring, with a peak season between January through March in Greece.
Current Facts
Ascolymbros, botanically classified as Scolymus hispanicus, is a wild and cultivated plant belonging to the Asteraceae family. The species has been growing naturally throughout the Mediterranean since ancient times and is a perennial plant valued for its edible leaves and fleshy taproot. Ascolymbros is the common name used for the species on the island of Crete. There are also many variations of this name widely used throughout Greece, including Askolymbros, Skolymos, Skoliabri, Skolymbri, Scombrouolo, and several others. For the purposes of this article, the information discussed will revolve around the traditional uses throughout Greece. Ascolymbros is categorized as one of Crete’s traditional wild greens and is a seasonally anticipated culinary ingredient. The species has evolved from a wild green foraged for survival to a cultivated and treasured ingredient celebrated for its versatility and nutritional properties. Each season, the plants are notoriously labor intensive to harvest from the ground as the leaves are sharp and the taproots are delicate and easily broken. Care is taken to harvest the taproots still attached to the greens, and the plant is sold whole or trimmed in large piles throughout markets. Despite their laborious nature, Ascolymbros is increasing in demand as multiple generations are becoming familiar with the plant’s nutritious nature. In Greek cuisine, Ascolymbros is utilized in both everyday and celebratory culinary preparations during its season.
Nutritional Value
Ascolymbros has been valued in natural medicines of Greece throughout history for its antioxidant properties, which are believed to help protect the body's overall health. Wild greens, a category that includes Ascolymbros, are also believed to contain vitamins C and E to strengthen the immune system and guard the cells against the damage caused by free radicals. Several Greek historical records note the use of Ascolymbros for treating kidney stones. It is said the juice from boiled greens acts as a diuretic and is frequently consumed by Greeks, even in the modern day, to cleanse the body. The plant is also used in village remedies to soothe leg cramps and encourage hair regrowth when topically applied in treatments. Pliny the Elder, a Roman naturalist, highlighted using Ascolymbros as a natural antiperspirant. The root is boiled, mixed with wine, and topically applied or consumed with a spoonful of honey to lessen body odor.
Applications
Ascolymbros has a neutral, earthy, and subtle artichoke-like flavor suited for savory culinary preparations. The taproots and thick central stems of the leaves are the preferred edible portions of the plant, and these are traditionally cooked before consumption. It is important to note that Ascolymbros requires extensive preparation before it can be cooked. The leaves must be washed to remove dirt and are sometimes soaked in vinegar to remove any lingering insects. Once cleaned, gloves are worn, and the stems are stripped of their leaves to remove the thorny, sharp portions. The taproots are washed, peeled, and sliced open to remove the central woody core. Ascolymbros can be seen already prepped in markets or sold in their natural state. In Crete, Greece, Ascolymbros is a seasonal delicacy in the winter and early spring. The taproots and stripped leaf stems are customarily boiled with lemon and combined with meat, herbs, and vegetables for added flavoring. Ascolymbros is also simmered into soups and stews. The cooked roots and greens complement dishes with snails or lamb, familiar food sources on the island, and are eaten with broad beans as a vegetarian dish. They are also cooked with potatoes or incorporated into egg-based dishes like omelets. A frequent appetizer, or mezze, in Crete, involves boiling, soaking Ascolymbros in vinegar, and later preserving it in extra virgin olive oil. The most famous preparation utilizing Ascolymbros is in lamb dishes served on Easter Sunday. The taproot and greens are cooked using varying methods, notably lamb fricassee, and are served as an emblematic dish of the religious celebration. Ascolymbros pairs well with aromatics such as shallots, spring onions, garlic, dill, parsley, and fennel, lemon juice, artichokes, potatoes, and green olives. The taproots and greens should be separated and are recommended to be immediately consumed for the best quality and flavor. Local vendors in Crete comment that the taproots will remain fresh when stored in the refrigerator for a few days but should be used no more than five days after purchase.
Ethnic/Cultural Info
Ascolymbros was notably mentioned by several ancient Greek naturalists and physicians. The two most famous records of the species were written by Dioscorides and Theophrastus. Pedanius Dioscorides was a Greek physician and pharmacologist who traveled as a surgeon with the Roman armies under emperor Nero. During his travels with the army, Dioscorides studied the medicinal properties of plants throughout the Mediterranean and Northern Africa and later compiled his findings into five books collectively known as De Materia Medica. The work was completed in the 1st century CE and is still considered one of the most complete pieces regarding medicines used by ancient physicians. De Materia Medica contains over 1,000 medicines and 600 documented plant species, including Scolymus hispanica. In his writing, Dioscorides references the species as “Sclolymno” and recommends eating the plant similarly to asparagus. Before Discorides, Greek philosopher and naturalist Theophrastus recorded the species as “Leimonios skolymos” and praised the plant for its health properties.
Geography/History
Scolymus hispanicus is native to the Mediterranean, including regions of Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East. The species has been growing wild since ancient times and has been documented by naturalists and physicians since the 4th century BCE. In Greece, the species is found in low-altitude regions such as valleys, mountainsides, near the coast, fields, and streams. The species is hardy and adaptable, surviving in many soil types, from fertile to stony. Over time, Scolymus hispanicus was selected for commercial cultivation to meet increasing demand. The species is now produced in larger quantities, especially in the Chania region and the Gramvousa Peninsula in northwestern Crete. Today, Ascolymbros is harvested young before the plants form an upright stem and is sold fresh by local vendors throughout the Mediterranean. Each region has preferences on how the plant is used in culinary preparations, resulting in some communities only selling the rosette leaf tops while others include the fleshy taproot. The Ascolymbros featured in the photograph above were sourced through Mourines Market, a weekly farmer’s market held on Wednesdays in Chania, Crete.
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